Repository: Freie Universität Berlin, Math Department

An Experimental and Numerical Study of Long Wave Run-Up on a Plane Beach

Drähne, U. and Goseberg, N. and Vater, S. and Beisiegel, N. and Behrens, J. (2016) An Experimental and Numerical Study of Long Wave Run-Up on a Plane Beach. J. Mar. Sci. Eng., 4 (1). ISSN EISSN 2077-1312

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Abstract: This research is to facilitate the current understanding of long wave dynamics at coasts and during on-land propagation; experimental and numerical approaches are compared against existing analytical expressions for the long wave run-up. Leading depression sinusoidal waves are chosen to model these dynamics. The experimental study was conducted using a new pump-driven wave generator and the numerical experiments were carried out with a one dimensional discontinuous Galerkin non-linear shallow water model. The numerical model is able to accurately reproduce the run-up elevation and velocities predicted by the theoretical expressions. Depending on the surf similarity of the generated waves and due to imperfections of the experimental wave generation, riding waves are observed in the experimental results. These artifacts can also be confirmed in the numerical study when the data from the physical experiments is assimilated. Qualitatively, scale effects associated with the experimental setting are discussed. Finally, shoreline velocities, run-up and run-down are determined and shown to largely agree with analytical predictions.

Item Type:Article
Uncontrolled Keywords:long wave; tsunami run-up; pump-driven wave generator; discontinuous Galerkin model; shallow water equations
Subjects:Mathematical and Computer Sciences > Mathematics > Applied Mathematics
Divisions:Department of Mathematics and Computer Science > Institute of Mathematics > Geophysical Fluid Dynamics Group
ID Code:2414
Deposited By: Ulrike Eickers
Deposited On:25 Feb 2020 16:07
Last Modified:25 Feb 2020 16:10

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